adv 1
adv3

my amazon.bookstore


Have a look!

ispir.ationals

  • EVELOVES
  • SGP
  • THE SARTORIALIST
  • adv 2
    adv4

    Durability is the new luxury bench mark.  Status labels are not enough, and what screams rich louder than anything?  ”I am so expensive this doesn’t even get to be dry cleaned.”


    This phenomenon hit home when I visited the showroom of the current king of  ”absolute luxe” - Brunello Cucinelli where I found a pair of pale beige shoes trimmed with feathers.  These shoes and accompanying price tag that edges towards four digits are one of those items that take “luxury” to the next step to a category called “absolute luxe.”

     

    While my immediate thought is – how do you clean that?  For a few  out there – that limited life span is a non issue – yes, we are not referring to that 1% – but that 0.0001%

     

    brunello cucinelli, shoes, feathers



    This is my theory behind the current popluarity of raffia, another material not known for its durability: bend it too much and it will break for sure. For this season Burberry went for it in a big way with spectacular results – but there were a few other companies who deserve a shout out too.


    Roberta di Camerino bag, trend raffia

    Roberta di Camerino

     

    ON THE STREET


    Anna Dello Russo, trend, raffia, Roberta di Camerino

    Anna Dello Russo with Paula Cademartori raffia bag

     

    WISH LIST

    CLOSE UP

    paula cademartori

     

    Paula Cademartori

    Fall / Winter 12/13


    roberta di camerino

    Roberta di Camerino

    S/S 2012



    Ralph Lauren wedge, trend raffiaRalph Lauren wedge


    ON THE CATWALK


    Fashion trend, Raffia, Dolce and Gabbana, spring summer 2012, 2013

    Raffia Dolce and Gabbana dress

     

    IF YOU CAN’T PULL OF A RAFFIA DRESS


    Dolce and Gabbana hat, trend raffiaDolce and Gabbana



    Burberry SS12 Womenswear - The Burberry Whipstitch Bag, trend raffia

    Burberry bag



    Giorgia Surina at the Burberry Prorsum AW12 Menswear Show.jpg

    Giorgia Surina

    at the Burberry Prorsum

    AW12 Menswear show wearing Burberry

    raffia coat, bag and shoes


    Edited: Jodie

    Words: Jas


    Stefano Guindani captures Haiti

    Thursday, 10 May, 2012

    Scroll down for ItalianScendi Per La Verione ItalianaScroll down for Italian Version


    If you are part of the Milan fashion scene, the agency name, Stefano Guindani Photo (SGP), is a familiar name.


    stefano guindani


    Stefano’s agency SGP, started out in those fashion glory days of the early 90′s, when Valentino, Gianfranco Ferrè, Giorgio ArmaniVersace, Gucci, and Pucci were at the top of their game.


    donatella versace, at home, stefano guindani,

    Donatella Versace

    at home with

    Stefano Guindani

    Alongside them, Cremona born, Stefano became a trusted partner who  documented their success stories. Today he is very much still in the arena, though more as a behind-the-scenes and behind-the-camera – success story.  His agency SGP does it all;  fashion features on celebrities, parties, reportage, plus all those important international events like: the film festivals (Cannes and Venice), and Men’s and Women’s fashion shows in Milan, New York and Paris.

     

    stefano guindani, dali lama,

    Stefano Guindani

    with the

    Dalai Lama

    I  got to know his crew pretty quickly as the most important Milanese parties and events come lined with the familiar faces of Stefano’s unintrusive photographers; they are not those type of “paps”  that chase you down the street, but rather kindly offer you a lift home when the evening draws to a close.

     

     

    valentino, eva, red carpet

    Valentino

    with

    Eva Herzigova


    Next week Stefano is putting his skills to a good cause as part of his ongoing relationship with Francesca Rava N.P.H. Foundation which supports schools and hospitals in Haiti with an awe-inspiring exhibition documenting the island today:


    ” I hope  through my lens I caught the diverse aspects of this population.  That even despite their poverty, the degradation, and the tragic sanitary conditions, I have also been able to reveal the pride and dignity that they posses, thanks to their strong cultural beliefs, that are embedded in their traditions and in religion,”

    explained the photographer, who went on to add:

    The presence of the Voodoo culture permeates everything on a daily  basis on this island.  It is the central pretext of my reportage.”

     

    The shows opens on the 17th of May in Milan for click here for further details


    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


    Q & A


    Jas:

    What drew you to Haiti – and what has kept you focused on this country in particular?

    Stef:

    It was the dramatic contrast between happiness and desperation set against absolute poverty. It was also the way people live in Haiti itself; there is an innate  ”joy of living” in the people, yet around them is immense pain and suffering.


    Jas:

    What changes have you seen in Haiti since you started on this project?

    Stef:

    None. The earthquake for sure has worsened the whole situation, but nothing has changed for the better. Obviously the visual impact of the city is pretty impressionable; some parts have been completely wiped out, erased from society – while adults and kids have been devastated. The big changes that I have seen personally,  are due to the continual support of the Rava Foundation, who have practically doubled their efforts in the construction of hospitals and orphanages, while also providing the people with newer and more efficient equipment.


    Haiti  - Saut d'Eau ©StefanoGuindani


    Jas:

    What kinds of skills do you feel make a good reportage photographer in Haiti?

    Stef:

    A good manner, and being sensitive to the situation in front of you is a trait that most photographers need to have, other than the technical know-how. “Sensitivity”  is the characteristic that helps you absorb both the content and helplessness of the people in once take. At times, it is easier and at other times it’s hard, but a true photographer must be able to see the life of the everyday ‘joy’ even in the midst of a desperate situation. The photographer must have the ability to describe and tell the story – which may be an arrogant claim, but I feel that in the case of Haiti I  need to make the outside world more aware of the suffering and poverty.  It is too easy for people to close themselves up in their shells.


    stefano guindani haiti


    Jas:

    What do you feel has been the secret to your success in the fashion industry, and in Milan in particular?

    Stef:

    The secret is absolute sincerity  and the ability to be a professional, and removed from the service being realized.


    Jas:

    Have you had any feedback on this Haiti project that has surprised you?

    Stef:

    Yes, seeing the hospital being built has been a pleasant surprise. I am even quite shocked by the generosity of most of the Italians, in spite of the ecomomic crisis that has hit the world. We hope that even at this time we will have many people donating on the occasion of my new exhibit.


    stefano guindani, haiti,

     

    ITALIAN VERSION


    Che cosa ti ha attirato verso questo posto, Haiti – e che cosa ti tieni ancora interessato particolarmente?

    Principalmente mi ha colpito il contrasto tra la disperazione e la felicità, tra la povertà assoluta di Haiti e la ricchezza del mondo occidentale, tra il superfluo e l’essenzialmente necessario. Ma anche la gioia di vivere di Haiti in netto contrasto con il malessere e l’insofferenza diffusa del mondo occidentale. Tutto questo mi piace trasmetterlo con le immagini lasciando il segno nelle persone che vedono i miei reportage di Haiti.

    - Che cambiamenti hai visto dal vivo da quando hai cominciato questo progetto li?


    Nessuno. Il terremoto ha sicuramente peggiorato le cose, ma la situazione era già drammatica prima. L’impatto visivo è sicuramente impressionante sia sula città, che in parte è stata rasa al suolo, sia sulle persone, molti adulti e bambini sono mutilati. Il grandi cambiamenti concreti che ho visto stanno avvenendo grazie alla Fondazione Rava che nel tempo ha raddoppiato gli interventi con la costruzione di ospedali e orfanotrofi costruiti con sistemi e attrezzature da primo mondo.



    - Che tipo di competenze uno hai bisogno di essere un fotografo che fa il reportage?

    Una buona sensibilità, che dovrebbero avere tutti i fotografi, oltre che una conoscenza tecnica completa. La sensibilità è una caratteristica che ti porta a cogliere tutto ciò che ti circonda, la felicità e la disperazione. A volte è più facile cogliere la sensibilità, ma un bravo fotografo deve anche saper cogliere la gioia della vita, specialmente se si presenta in mezzo alla disperazione. Il fotografo deve avere la pretesa di descrivere e scrivere la storia, una pretesa che può sembrare arrogante ma che è un dovere perché bisogna sensibilizzare più gente possibile, perché molti tendono a chiudere gli occhi di fronte alla sofferenza altrui.

    - Qual è  il segreto del tuo successo nella moda, e più precisamente a Milano?

    Il segreto è l’assoluta professionalità e l’affidabilità tecnica indipendente dal tipo di servizio che si sta realizzando.




    - Hai avuto qualche ‘feedback’ su questo progetto di Haiti che ti ha fatto stupire?


    Si la costruzione dell’ospedale è stata una bella “sorpresa”. Sono anche stupito dalla generosità degli italiani, che nonostante la crisi restano persone di cuore. Speriamo anche in occasione di questa nuova mostra di trovare molti donatori.







    Scroll down for ItalianScendi Per La Verione ItalianaScroll down for Italian Version

    For our Milan Design Fair 2012 review we pulled in a professional; Caposervizo for Elle Decor Italia, Ruben Modigliani.

    Thanks to him we got  our very own bespoke dairy of what was “hot” during this very tiring week of walkabouts.
    Thanks Rube!


    Ruben Modigliani – in his own words:

    I’m Ruben Modigliani, a journalist that specializes in design.  I now work for Elle Decor Italia and even though I may have started out writing about another field (fashion) –  The Milan Design Fair, or as the Italians like to call it “Il Salone” is something that I have taken very seriously forever.  I should be  a seasoned player after all these years, yet I always managed to get a little anxious on the eve of every Design Fair: ‘Am I going to manage to get it all in?’  - Even if I already know the answer. ” No” .  This is because the Salone is not just found inside well-established fair grounds (like Rho) but for the most part its ‘outside’ and ‘everywhere’- and it’s an ‘outside’  &  ’everywhere’ that turns the whole of Milan upside-down.
    For my part, I have already been receiving “Save The Dates” since February – and they have been coming every day and in increasing numbers – so by the time the design week arrives I end up with an enormous pile to sort through – not so unlike level 50 in the computer game Tetris.
    For us who are part of the “establishment” our working week always starts the day before the Fair actually opens –  its called “preview & press conference Monday”.  From that point until the end of the week we will all be bouncing from one part of the city to another, a bit like those balls that you see getting juggled about by dolphins.

    ______
    15th, SUNDAY
    To be honest – I was already on the go even before Monday.  On the Sunday before there was “super private” preview of Garage Milano, a vast space that had been transformed into a design gallery:  the piece that caught my eye was a 7 meter high sellotape and styrofoam installation by Philippe Bestenheider

    Philippe Bestenheider floating Styrofoam installation
    Garage Milano
    Installation
    Philippe Bestenheider

    _______
    16, MONDAY
    My day starts with a Molteni & C press conference.  They announce the re-edition of a series of pieces by Gio Ponti.  They are simply magnificient – there’s a bookcase which is breathtaking.  It’s almost otherworldly – I had seen it before at a show organized at the Triennale (Milan’s design museum).  My Salone start may be looking into the past – but it is a past with a lot of class!

    gio ponti molteni
    Gio Ponti
    at
    Molteni & C

    Molteni had more on offer, there were some unique and very beautiful pieces:  An oval mirror with an elegant multi-colored frame,  I also loved the simple little tables that seemed to have been sketched with a black felt tip pen in space – These were pieces that were designed by Ron Gilad, one of the Salone’s star designers.  Everyone will be talking about him.





    molteni mirror











    Ron Gilad molteni
    Ron Gilad
    at
    Molteni & C

    —–
    Then… my main pit stops for the rest of the day:
    *
    The “suite” designed by Maison Martin Margiela for Cerruti Baleri ( I loved the carpets and the black and white trompe-l’oeil)
    *
    The new collection by  B&B italia.   The table by  BarberOsgerby,  in cement and plastic really stood out for me
    *
    I dropped in at Lea Ceramiche to see a line of tiles designed by Kravitz Design (Yes! Lenny Kravitz,the singer)

    lenny kravitz, kravitz design, lea ceramiche,
    Lea Ceramiche Press Conference
    with
    Lenny Kravitz
    *
    A quick run to the Rinascente for the press conference on Hacked Design.
    Good installation outside, nice atmosphere inside.
    (LOCATION: floor -1, the level dedicated to design called  Design Supermarket)



    Multi-purpose laboratories where held throughout the week; the first, with studio Formafantasma, was on melting and modeling of resins



    There, we are served a quick, light lunch –  taboulé and pasta that came packed into micro glasses.
    I bump into Jasmine who asks me to do a piece for her blog.  I accept. Did I have too much wine?

    rinascente hacked
    Hacked Design
    at
    La Rinascente
    I am in a rush again as I dash for the Statale University for their opening press conference.  The speakers listed are the a sort of “top ten” in the world of architecture and design. Impressive.

    michele de lucchi statale
    There are some beautiful  installations by Michele De Lucchi (above) and Odile Decq (below)…..

    statale Odile Decq

    …..and car commisioned by Mini designed by the Dutch duo  Scholten & Baijings, ….

    Scholten & Baijings mini

    As well as a designer who was desperate to get noticed and had crammed his flyer, available in at least 8 different languages everywhere.  Clever

    flyer
    Then I popped by Via Manzoni to see my friend Sophie Wannenes who was  presenting her fabulous “endless mirrors” ( like those from the 70s with lightbulbs, but with a modern take – in LED) and mounted into side tables and consoles.

    Sophie Wannenes
    Sophie Wannenes
    Then its onto Zona Tortona: Cappellini, Cassina e Poltrona Frau take up the vast spaces allowed in Fondazione Pomodoro.  It was a beautiful reinterpretation by Charlotte Perriand of a refuge made in metal.  From outside it seemed like a space rocket circa ’50s, while inside everything was wooden – and set on two floors.
    poltrona frau, fondazione pomodoro
    Poltrona Frau
    at
    Fondazione Pomodoro
    Then I headed to the center, for Skitsch‘s Salone party – the design store was packed with people, it was more like a club than a retail space.  It’s was only 8pm but it already felt like midnight, I cut through the crowd to greet Luca Bombassei, the party’s host – and I only manage to get to him by  a wisp.

    new york times bulgari hotel 2012

    Then I pop around the corner to the Bulgari Hotel for a party organised by the New York Times’, T Magazine (they were so nice to invite me!):  It’s surreal.  I feel as if I am in a film.  I have never seen so many famous designers together.  While I grab something to drink I pass Tom Dixon and Ronan Bouroullec laughing together, and just a few meters later I see Shay Alkalay (Raw Edges) chatting away to Ineke Hans.  I bump into Marco Verlardi head of the magazine; Apartamento – who reminds me that there is still another party to tackle – this time to celebrate the launch of Discipline, a new brand of which there has already been a lot of good buzz.  So that’s where I move to next.

    On the way I bump into  a face that feels familiar – and I think its one of our photograpers.  I get it really wrong.  Its Cédric Morisset a French colleague who I really like. A shocking mix up ( but they really look similar!)

    Finally I get to the Discipline party, and as I walk through the door I see Luca Nichetto, among the new Italian talents he is one of the smoother operators. (For Discipline he designed a great chair) I manage to see it for a second before I was swamped by another crowd.

    Discipline arm chairs
    Sofa Set
    at
    Discipline
    *
    I get back at 10:30 ish – I am not sure, but I do know one thing for certain, my feet are really hurting!
    _____
    17, TUESDAY
    It’s the first day of the “Rho Fiera“, though I have already decided that I will do it tomorrow.  So, today I will continue to do my city “walk-abouts”. Today I am accompanied by Chiara who is a new intern (who knows what kind of impression we will make together – running around like loonies?)
    We start with the new show room of Arclinea, in a showroom which has been described as “little” but to us seems really big.  We also discover a little garden with an open-air kitchen. How chic!
    Over at the Zagliani showroom everything is “high class”.  Nilufar had been brought in to curate one or two of the spaces – visionary pieces in frescoed rooms.  There are also some unique pieces by Gaetano Pesce.

    nilfufar zagliani gaetano pesce
    Gaetano Pesce
    ….and a room full of furniture made with white neon tubes by Massimo Uberti

    Massimo Uberti
    Massimo Uberti
    I did the same route as the day before, though this time I made it  more complete.
    In via Durini at Porro I was struck by a buffet designed by Piero Lissoni whose doors opened in an usual way.  I had never thought that hinges could be so elegant.

    Then it was back to Discipline for another peek at their furniture.  Yesterday’s crowd prevented me from getting a good look.  The collection is really one to take in.  After a break at the Villa Necchi (  where objects designed by students from Fabrica are scattered around  the 1930s Piero Portaluppi-designed setting) and stop at De Padova – we then make an unplanned visit to Baccarat, where we get to sit down (phew!) and get to try out some great Sauternes.

    Giacomo Ravagli
    Lights
    by
    Giacomo Ravagli
    Back once again to Nilufar in Via Spiga, to look at the beautifully researched interiors.  Loved the spectacular copper lamps by Giacomo Ravagli.

    Daniele Innamorato
    Daniele Innamorato
    … and Daniele Innamorato’s butterfly /Rorschach shapes which are truly fun and poetic.

    I go onto Lambrate.  I’ve got an appointment with Gary Card, a young set designer and illustrator who set up the  ”pop up” store for Cos.


    Gary card
    Gary

    cos
    COS
    Pop Up Store

    As I am about to clamber down into the metro I see, for the first time in my 23 years in Milan, a beautiful early 19th century palazzo hidden behind via Turati:  The Salone, may make us run about like crazy things, but sometimes it also gifts us moments like this.


    Zona Ventura/Lambrate is probably the most alive part of the Salone this week: there is a wonderful atmosphere – loads of design schools come here to show their projects, so the area is full of young people.  There is an atmosphere of an undercover party over at the Royal College of Art.  It’s fun.

    royal college of art, John Rainey
    John Rainey
    at
    And finally I see one of our boys distributing Elle Deco’s  special issue for the salone – it’s a guide that shows you what’s really happening in our city.


    It’s a rush back to the center. There is a Boffi opening, then Hermès where I bump into Cèdric again – which reminds me of another thing about the Salone – that during the fair there is a constant stream of “bumping” into friends and collegues: it’s like being at one big open party.  I feel a bit faint (am I hungry? My lunch has only consisted so far of delicious tit bits served with the Sauterne and nothing else), but I forge ahead – first to Barovier & Toso in Milan’s botanical garden (which contains a magcial installation by Paola Navone)

    paola navone 2012 milan Barovier & Toso

    paola navone 2012 milan Barovier & Toso orto botanico
    in the
    Orto Botanico
    - and then onto Louis Vuitton with its international atmosphere and waiters serving little bites, amaretti and fois gras.  Around the corner there is a cocktail honouring the designers Victor & Rolf – and then I attempt to enter Kartell where Lenny Kravitz (him again!) is presenting a chair he has designed together with Philippe Starck. The crowd there is impossible to do battle against, unless you have a personal bodyguard – I admit defeat. But I have to say Via Turati looks spectacular in its full blown party mode.

    rho
    at
    Rho Fiera
    _____
    18th, WEDNESDAY’
    The day has just started and I am in a panic.  I have lost my accreditation of the Rho Fair. When I get there – it’s as if I have arrived at the north pole. I get inside: it’s time to interview, meet and greet.  There’s a ton of wonderful things to see, so I skip lunch. Among my favorites (too many to list);






    *
    Modular bookshelf by Chen Min, a young Chinese designer,

    chen min
    *
    ….(below) Console by Doshi Levien for BD Barcelona….

    Doshi Levien for BD Barcelona,

    *
    …….the set by Bolon with a statue of Jean Nouvel seated on an armchair…

    jean nouvel bolon
    *
    a modular bookshelf by Nicola De Ponti for Valsecchi,

    Nicola De Ponti per Valescchi
    *
    …and (below) a super kitsch dress-up by Vitra – a table draped in a cloth covered with mirrors, the kind you usually find on disco balls….

    2012 vitra
    *
    and a transparent chair by Eugeni Quitllet for Kartell (below)

    SILK_QUITLLET_front Eugeni Quitllet for Kartell

    I get back to Milan by train, arriving at the central station.  I feel like I’ve been away on a trip.  I drop by my house to dump the kilos of paper I have collected at the Fiera ( pamphlets an press releases ) – and of course I find that entry accreditation that I thought I had lost.  I’m on the go again: I slip by the show by the Japanese sutdio Nendo.  Their installation is a beautiful contrast: the hypermodern pieces against the location that they have chosen – Palazzo Visconti which is packed with marble and frescos.  Then it’s a quick drop by Schiffini to see a kitchen by  by Alfredo Häberli, and chance meeting with  a charming pr girl.  My final stop was for a cocktail at Vionnet – for a few chats and a sip of champagne.  A soft ending to a hard day.

    nendo
    in the
    Palazzo Visconti
    ___
    19th, THURSDAY
    Its back to Lambrate.  Is it because I am feeling hungry or are the areas connected with food ultra appealing?
    eating lambrate
    I get the chance to see a delectable project by 2 young designers: a furniture-shaped mould for biscuits and cakes  by Ryosuke Fukusada and Rui Pereira. I can’t hide my smile.

    Ryosuke Fukusada e Rui Pereira
    Ryosuke Fukusada e Rui Pereira

    I stop for lunch and then I am back to Brera for Moroso and to see Zhang Ke, a fun and charming Chinese designer.  Then I am onto the showroom at Jil Sander as they are hosting an event for Kvadrat – a big name in the fabric and furniture world who has asked 30 deisgners to create pieces for them.  My favorite were the animals fabric by Ionna Vautrin.  (below)

    stuffed animals ionna vautrin kvadrat
    I get home, and change.  Tonight it is the Elle Decoration International Design Awards, with a mega party at the Palazzo Serbelloni.  Rain is flooding down strong enough for  Noah to pull out his arc, but luckily enough, the party is covered up with a tent strong enough to fight off hail.  Thank goodness!  There’s another big party on the cards at La Permanente – 50 years of Flos ( they had even got the London based-DJ Horse Meat Disco in): when I arrive I see a wall of people trying to get past the door – it’s too much.  I go home.

    _____
    20th, FRIDAY
    Back to the Rho Fiera, but this time with a change: a meeting with my editorial team for an update on what we have seen.  I keep marching relentlessly through all those stands, I have to tell you I have seen a ton of amazing things, both this year and last year… so much so, that I skip lunch…today I am keeping it at the limit… I just managed to get down one sweet.  I get back to the city ( this time with a driver, what luxury!) and head to the Magenta/San Vittore area which I haven’t seen yet.  My first stop is the magnificent Casa degli Atellani, a home that belongs to another time with a huge garden that arrives as a complete surprise – a private space that Fontana Arte has chosen to show its pieces, another important Milanese design company with another birthday (this time  it’s 70 years).
    rossana orlandi restaurant
    Rossana Orlandi’s
    Courtyard Eaterie
    From there  I hop over to the ever inspirational Rossana Orlandi, and onto the great set by di Upmarket (held in a former garage which has been transformed into a bazaar), next stop is  the Museum of Science and Technology where Tom Dixon has put together his own “mini-fair” with a beautiful “pop up” restaurant ( sorry! I always seem to returning to the subject of food) set up in the original dining hall, or to be precise a refectory as the place used to be a monastery – and once again I enjoy the contrast between the sumptuousness of distant past and the modern furniture:  in this case there is a long table, like those we would see in a library that stretches down the length of the hall.

    tom dixon nokia spring table
    Tom Dixon & Nokia‘s
    Spring Table
    “Pop Up” Restaurant

    Then I am off to a showroom just behind La Scala to see an exhibtion organised by Domus on future concepts in design.  There is a wonderful 3d printer that uses chocolate to make shapes, and a machine that utilizes recycled plastic to make chairs.  There’s also an incredible ultra light carbon fibre chair with sensors that measure tension during use,  if you sit down on it, you get filmed.  I can’t resist so I go for a “test drive”

    ruben modigliani
    Ruben Modigliani
    at

    I finished the evening with a cocktail: Molteni‘s party for Ron Gilad (I even get to say 2 things to him in Hebrew), and then Dedar who is hosting Hermès this year.  I am a zombie by the time I get home.

    czech embassy milan, milan furniture fair
    Czech Embassy Milan
    during the
    Milan Furniture Fair
    ______
    21st, SATURDAY
    My present to myself is to start the day “easy” – as my first appointment of the day is behind my house in the Czech Consulate, a beautiful modern construction that I always had a longing to see.  During the Milan Furniture Fair it is open to the public and it shows some design.  Then I am off to the gallery Luisa Delle Piane to see the beautiful show by Matali Crasset, even more beautiful is Luisa’s other show on desks (all from different epochs and all noteworthy) - and finally onto the Triennale, Milan’s design museum – which seems like a kind of fairground full of bizarre objects for this year the level there is is pretty good, while on the other hand I got a wonderful surprise from the Ultrabody show at the Castello Sforzesco and to finish the day… guess what? Rain again! And a visit to ECAL who had come in from Lausanne – which always produces interesting projects.  I also saw the results of a course with glass that one of the Brouroullec brothers had been following – they are such nice guys and always inspiring others.
    ______
    22nd, SUNDAY
    We are almost at the end! I go back to Zona Tortona where luckily I didn’t find the crammed crowds of years pasted.  I was struck by a installation by Nendo for Lasvit: simple and made with light and beautiful objects.  I finish the Salone with this image – and with a tireness that makes me feel that I am ready to sleep until 2013.
    nendo, lasvit
    Nendo
    for
    Lasvit


    Ruben – in his own words
    Mi chiamo Ruben Modigliani e sono un giornalista di design. Lavoro a Elle Decor Italia: fino a una decina di anni fa mi occupavo d’altro (moda), ma già da tempo non mi perdevo il Salone del Mobile. Malgrado tutta questa esperienza, ogni anno alla vigilia della settimana del design vengo preso dall’ansia: riuscirò a vedere tutto quello che vorrei? La risposta in realtà la so già, ed è negativa. Perché il Salone – dentro ma soprattutto fuori dai padiglioni della Fiera – è un evento che sconvolge Milano. E me. Il primo Save the date per questo Salone credo di averlo ricevuto a febbraio. Poi sono arrivati gli altri, sempre di più. Come al cinquantesimo livello di Tetris. Come sempre la settimana, per noi addetti ai lavori, inizia con un giorno di anticipo: è il lunedì delle preview, delle conferenze stampa. E si inzia a rimbalzare da una parte all’altra della città come palline di un flipper.
    _______
    15, DOMENICA
    Io in realtà ho iniziato già domenica, con una super private view di Garage Milano, spazio enorme trasformato in galleria di design: tra le cose più belle viste lì, l’installazione di Philippe Bestenheider – circa 7 metri di altezza – fatta di solo con polistirolo e nastro adesivo.







    16, lunedì.

    La mia giornata inizia con la conferenza stampa da Molteni & C per annunciare una serie di riedizioni di pezzi di Gio Ponti: magnifici, c’è anche una libreria – bellissima, quasi incorporea – che avevo visto alla mostra organizzata qualche mese fa dalla Triennale. Un inizio nel segno del passato, ma che classe.





    Sempre da Molteni noto alcuni mobili particolari e molto belli: uno specchio ovale e dalla cornice elegantemente multicolore (IMG_1545), dei tavolini essenziali che sembrano disegni fatti con un pennarello nero nello spazio.

    Sono pezzi disegnati da Ron Gilad, uno dei designer protagonisti di questa stagione. Ne parleranno tutti. Poi, e cito solo le tappe principali della giornata:

    - la “suite” disegnata da Maison Martin Margiela per Cerruti Baleri (bellissimi i tappeti trompe-l’oeil in bianco e nero);
    - nuova collezione di B&B Italia con un bel tavolo di BarberOsgerby, in plastica rifinita con cemento;
    - da Lea Ceramiche per vedere la linea di piastrelle disegnare da Kravitz Design (Lenny Kravitz, proprio lui);
    - di corsa alla Rinascente per la conferenza stampa di Hacked Design: bella installazione all’esterno, bella atmosfera all’interno (al piano -1, quello dedicato al design) con un palco multifunzione — dove gli italiani Formafantasma scaldano delle resine su fornelli da campo e poi le modellano. Pranzo minimo ma neanche troppo, piccoli bicchieri con taboulé e pasta. Incontro Jasimne che mi propone di fare una cosa per il suo blog. Accetto. Colpa del vino?
    - Di corsa all’Università Statale per la conferenza stampa d’apertura: gli invitati a parlare sono una specie di top ten dell’architettura e del design mondiale. Impressionante. Belle le installazioni di Michele De Lucchi — e di Odile Decq — e quella commissionata da Mini e realizzata dagli olandesi Scholten & Baijings (—-); dappertutto c’è anche un volantino, scritto in almeno otto lingue diverse, di un giovane designer che si fa pubblicità –. Divertente.
    - Un salto in via Manzoni da Sophie Wannenes, amica che presenta dei favolosi specchi “infiniti” (come quelli anni ’70 con le lampadine, ma in versione moderna con i Led) in versione tavolino o console;
    - zona Tortona: Cappellini, Cassina e Poltrona Frau negli spazi super della Fondazione Pomodoro. Bellissima la ricostruzione di un rifugio in metallo progettato da Charlotte Perriand: da fuori sembra un razzo spaziale anni ’50, dentro invece è tutto in legno e su due piani.
    - Ritorno in centro: party da Skitsch, pieno di gente e con atmosfera da club. Sono le 20, ma sembra notte fonda. Mi faccio strada tra la folla per salutare Luca Bombassei, padrone di casa. Ci riesco per miracolo;
    - da lì faccio un salto all’Hotel Bulgari per il cocktail organizzato dal New York Times (che gentili a invitarmi): sembra di essere in un film, mai visti tanti designer tutti insieme. Mentre acchiappo qualcosa da bere mi passano davanti Tom Dixon e Ronan Bouroullec che scherzano; dopo pochi metri vedo Shay Alkalay (Raw Edges) che parla con Ineke Hans. Incontro Marco Velardi, mente del magazine Apartamento, che mi ricorda che c’è ancora il party per il lancio di Discipline, nuovo marchio di cui già si parla molto bene. Quindi mi sposto anche da lì;
    - per strada incontro una faccia familiare: mi sembra uno dei fotografi che lavorerà per noi. Mi sbaglio di grosso: è Cédric Morisset, collega francese molto simpatico. Qui pro quo clamoroso (i due però si somigliano sul serio);
    - arrivo finalmente al party di Discipline: appena entro incontro Luca Nichetto, tra i giovani italiani uno di quelli che si sta muovendo meglio (e per Discipline ha disegnato una gran bella poltrona: –). Poi veniamo inghiottiti dalla folla.
    Sono rientrato a casa credo alle 22:30. Non sono sicuro. So solo che avevo i piedi distrutti.
    17, martedì.
    Primo giorno di apertura della Fiera: io però ci andrò domani, oggi continuo a fare giri in città. Accompagnato da Chiara, stagista appena arrivata in redazione (chissà che impressione le faremo: una tribù di pazzi).
    Iniziamo da una visita al nuovo show-room di Arclinea, che ci viene presentato come “piccolo” e che a noi sembra decisamente grande. C’è anche un giardino con una cucina open air. Che chic.
    Altro momento di gran classe allo show-room Zagliani, dove Nilufar ha allestito alcune sale: pezzi visionari in sale affrescate. Pezzi unici di Gaetano Pesce (—) e un ambiente con mobili fatti tutti di tubi di neon bianchi, di Massimo Uberti (—).
    Altro giro – più completo di quello di ieri – in via Durini: da Porro mi colpisce una credenza disegnata da Piero Lissoni, con ante che si aprono in un modo affascinante. Mai pensato che una cerniera potesse essere così elegante.
    Di nuovo da Discipline per vedere i mobili: ieri sera con tutta quella ressa non si vedeva niente. Collezione davvero notevole.
    Dopo una pausa a Villa Necchi (con oggetti disegnati dagli studenti di Fabrica e integrati negli ambienti anni ’30 progettati da Piero Portaluppi) e una tappa da De Padova sosta – non prevista – da Baccarat, dove ci sediamo (wow!) e degustiamo pure del magnifico Sauternes.
    Di nuovo Nilufar in via Spiga: bella ricerca e bell’allestimento. Lampade scenografiche in rame di Giacomo Ravagli (—). Divertenti e poetiche le farfalle/macchie di Rorschach di Daniele Innamorato (—).
    Mi sposto verso Lambrate, dove ho un appuntamento con Gary Card (—), giovane set designer che qui ha realizzato un pop-up store per Cos (—). Faccio per entrare in metropolitana e vedo – per la prima volta in 23 anni che vivo a Milano – un bellissimo palazzo primi Ottocento nascosto dietro via Turati: il Salone, obbligandoci a girare come pazzi, ci regala anche queste cose.
    Zona Ventura/Lambrate, forse la più vitale di questa settimana: bellissima atmosfera, tante scuole che vengono qui a far vedere i loro progetti, tanti giovani. Atmosfera da party clandestino dal Royal College of Art (– è il lavoro di John Rainey), molto gradevole. E finalmente vedo i ragazzi che distribuiscono il nostro magazine fatto apposta per il Salone, una guida a quello che succede in città (—).
    Ritorno a razzo in centro: via Solferino, opening da Boffi con una valanga di designer. Proseguo per Hermès, dove ritrovo Cédric. Per strada intanto non ho fatto che incontrare amici e colleghi: sembra di essere a una festa. Però con un po’ di capogiro (sarà la fame? Il mio pranzo è stato le piccole squisitezze che ci hanno portato col Sauternes, niente altro). Proseguo per forza di volontà: prima da Barovier & Toso all’Orto Botanico (allestimento magico firmato da Paola Navone, —-), poi da Louis Vuitton (atmosfera molto mondana e piccole tartine con amaretti e fois gras), poi da Hugo Boss, poi a un cocktail in onore degli stilisti Viktor & Rolf. Cerco di entrare da Kartell, dove Lenny Kravitz (anche qui?) presenta una poltrona disegnata insieme a Philippe Starck: la ressa impossibile da affrontare senza un bodyguard. Rinuncio. Che bella via Turati piena di gente in festa (—).
    Mercoledì 18: oggi Fiera. Panico: ho perso il foglio con l’accredito, che mi ero stampato per risparmiare tempo all’ingresso. Arrivo a Rho dove fa un freddo polare (—). Mi tuffo nel Salone: interviste, incontri, interviste, incontri. Un sacco di belle cose ma niente pranzo. Alcune delle cose viste: una libreria modulare di Chen Min, giovane designer cinese (—); la console dei DoshiLevien per BD Barcelona (—); l’allestimento da Bolon con statue di Jean Nouvel seduto su un suo divanetto (–); la libreria componibile di NicolaDe Ponti per Valsecchi (—-); l’allestimento ironico e superkitsch da Vitra, addirittura una tovaglia fatta di specchi come le palle da discoteca (—); la poltroncina trasparente di Eugeni Quitllet per Kartell (—-).
    Rientro a Milano con un treno, arrivo alla Stazione Centrale: mi sembra di rientrare da un viaggio. Passo da casa a lasciare i chili di carta che ho preso in Fiera (cartelle stampa etc) e naturalmente trovo i fogli che avevo perso. Mi rimetto in moto: riesco a entrare per un soffio a vedere la mostra dello studio giapponese Nendo. Bel contrasto tra le loro cose ipermoderne e la location scelta, palazzo Visconti pieno di marmi e di affreschi (—). Poi Schiffini, dove presentano una bella cucina (disegnata da Alfredo Häberli, —) e dove l’addetta stampa è una ragazza che mi sta molto simpatica: faccio tre parole, finalmente un po’ rilassato dopo una giornata di chilometri. E da lì passo al cocktail alla boutique Vionnet: champagne e altre chiacchiere. La giornata finisce in modo soft.
    Giovedì 19, di nuovo in zona Lambrate. Sarà perché ho fame, o le zone legate al cibo sono tutte molto gradevoli (—)? Vedo anche il progetto delizioso di due giovani designer: uno stampo per biscotti che fa dei dolci a forma di mobili, di Ryosuke Fukusada e Rui Pereira (—). Mi strappano il sorriso. Pausa pranzo – la prima vera di questi giorni – da Francesca Ballini Richards, che col suo progetto Acasa riunisce ogni giorno della Design Week un gruppo eterogeneo di ospiti (—). Accanto a me a tavola ho Nally Bellati, la paparazza più elegante dell’universo. Proseguo tornando in zona Brera, da Moroso, dove mi intrattengo con Zhang Ke, designer cinese decisamente estroverso e molto gradevole. Da lì mi sposto verso lo showroom di Jil Sander, che per l’occasione ospita una mostra ideata da Kvadrat, grande nome dei tessuti per arredamento, coinvolgendo una trentina di designer. Tra i miei pezzi preferiti, gli animali disegnati da Ionna Vautrin. Rientro a casa per cambiarmi: stasera c’è la consegna degli EDIDA (Elle Decoration International Design Awards), con festona a Palazzo Serbelloni. Piove come se dovesse arrivare Noè ma per fortuna il cortile dove si svolge la festa è stato coperto con un tendone a prova di diluvio. Meno male. Dopo ci sarebbe anche il superparty alla Permanente per i 50 anni di Flos (hanno pure chiamato da Londra il dj del Horse Meat Disco): vado lì davanti e vedo il muro di gente che aspetta di entrare. Getto la spugna e vado a casa.
    Venerdì 20: di nuovo Fiera. Con una variante: facciamo una riunione di redazione per fare il punto della situazione. Continuo a macinare stand: devo dire che vedo parecchie belle cose, il livello anche quest’anno è alto. Continuo purtroppo a saltare il pranzo: oggi sono al minimo, riesco appena a mangiare una caramella. Rientro in città (con l’autista, lusso vero!) e vado in zona Magenta/San Vittore, che non avevo ancora fatto. Il primo posto che vedo è la magnifica Casa degli Atellani, residenza fuori dal tempo e con un grande giardino che nessuno si aspetterebbe di trovare. E’ un luogo privato, aperto per l’occasione per esporre i pezzi di Fontana Arte, altra azienda a un compleanno importante (per loro sono 70). Da lì, in rapida rassegna: il bazar sempre super stimolante di Rossana Orlandi, la bella iniziativa di Upmarket (un ex garage trasformato in spazio espositivo con progetti non solo in mostra ma anche in vendita), la mini-fiera organizzata da Tom Dixon all’interno dal Museo della Scienza e della Tecnica: bellissimo il ristorante (e scusate se parlo quasi solo di cibo) allestito all’interno dell’antico refettorio, anche qui contrasto riuscitissimo tra luogo antico e sontuoso e arredo modernissimo: in questo caso un lungo bancone tipo biblioteca che attraversa la sala per la sua lunghezza. Vado poi dietro la Scala per visitare la mostra organizzata da Domus sugli scenari futuri del design: favolosa la stampante 3d che usa il cioccolato come materia prima, o la macchina che realizza sedie utilizzando plastica di riciclo. C’è anche una sedia in fibra di carbonio, leggerissima, con sensori che misura la tensione del materiale durante l’uso: chi si siede viene filmato. Non resisto e partecipo al test (—). Chiudo la serata con una manciata di cocktail: da Molteni per festeggiare Ron Gilad (con cui riesco anche a dire due o tre parole in ebraico), e poi da Dedar. Torno a casa come uno zombie.
    Sabato 21. Mi regalo un inizio giornata tranquillo, tanto il primo appuntamento è dietro casa: la sede del consolato della Repubblica Ceca, una bella costruzione modernista che ho sempre desiderato vedere (—). E che in questi giorni è aperta al pubblico, ed espone vetri e pezzi di design. Mi sposto alla galleria Luisa Delle Piane: bello l’allestimento di Matali Crasset, ancora più bella la mostra sulle scrivanie (tutte di epoche diverse, e tutte notevolissime). Finalmente in Triennale, in genere una specie di luna park pieno di cose imprendibili – quest’anno mi è parsa un po’ sottotono, molto belle le cose di due designer belgi, D’Hanis & Lachaert, che ritagliano  al laser i soggetti dalle monete (—). Ma in generale meno smalto rispetto all’anno passato. Una bella sorpresa invece la mostra Ultrabody al Castello Sforzesco: ricerca interessante, peccato per l’allestimento suggestivo ma un po’ troppo a lume di candela (certe didascalie era proprio impossibile leggerle). Come conclusione della giornata, sotto – di nuovo! – la pioggia, la visita alla mostra dell’ECAL di Losanna: come sempre progetti di grande interesse. E i risultati di un corso sul vetro coordinato da uno dei fratelli Bouroullec molto, molto stimolanti.
    Domenica 22: ormai siamo al finale. Torno in zona Tortona, dove per fortuna non trovo le resse dell’anno passato ma comunque è discretamente presa d’assalto. Mi colpisce l’installazione firmata Nendo per Lasvit: semplicissima, fatta di luce e di begli oggetti. Il mio Salone si chiude con questa immagine. E adesso dormo fino ad aprile 2013.



    cap ferret is so NOT cap ferrat

    Thursday, 3 May, 2012

    cap ferret architecture

    “Couple Time” was long over-due.  I wanted to choose a romantic spot that was not predictable and over priced (Portofino, Capri, St Tropez etc).

    I landed on Cap Ferret, not to be confused with Cap Ferrat – and its Hotel du Cap and its Cristal swilling Oligarchs.

    It rained from the moment we arrived until we left, but our spirits were never dampened.

    When we got sick of looking lovingly into each others eyes we found that there were a ton of things to do.

    B & I  loved Cap Ferret because it was low key and that the only language we heard spoken was French


    ———————————–

    LAND

    in

    BORDEAUX

     

    bordeaux


    Take a walk through the old part of the city

    (Place Pey Berland (the Cathedral) pit stop for coffee at Café Français – Place Du Bourse – EAT Le Capon Fin)

    ….be amazed at the city’s beautiful yellow stone work thanks to the local quarries of “calcaires



    beach cap ferret


    RAIN

    EMERGENCY OUTFITTING


    rain coat


    Yellow Rain Coat

    With quilted lining on the inside

    Euro 20 from the Cap Ferret Market.

    Did I say Euro 20!


    gum boots


    Not So Lucky

    Lady Gum boots for Bruno


    map cap ferret


    Where To Stay


    maison du bassin


    La Maison du Bassin

    Adorable


    Jasmine working on her next masterpiece in the breakfast room


    maison du bassin cap ferret


    La Maison Du Bassin

    The Breakfast Room


    RESTAURANT MAISON DU BASSIN

     

    La Maison Du Bassin

    The Restaurant


    ************


    THINGS TO DO

    ___

    1.

    EAT


    oysters


    Fresh fish

    &

    Oysters, Oysters, Oysters…


    fresh fish cap ferret


    Le Bouchon du Ferret

    Eat, either almost straight from the sea in the fishmen’s cabins that line the waterfront or…


    cap ferret cabins


    my personal favorite

    garlic oysters


    Garlic Oysters on pink rock salt

    at

    Maison Du Bassin

    (great hotel, great restaurant)

    or walk down the road

    to


    le bouchon du ferret


    Le Bouchon du Ferret


    also reccommended


    Chez Magne – L’Herbe

    Chez Hortense – Pointe du Cap Ferret

    L’Escale – Cap Ferret

    Fredelian – Cap Ferret (For breakfast cakes)


    ____

    2.

    LA PHARE

    Cap Ferret


    phare cap ferret


    Get a sense of where you are by climbing up the light house and getting a bird’s eye-view of Cap Ferret


    ___

    3.

    VISIT

    L’Herbe


    See the Chapel Mauresque, then walk into town and through the alleys until you find a waterside terrace to eat fresh oysters


    chapel cap ferret

     

    ___

    4.

    LEARN

    To Surf



    cap ferret surfing


    or

    RENT

    a catamaran

    at the Cercle Nautique the oysters next door at Chez Bertrand are good)


    boats cap ferret


    or rent a boat

    and go out into the Bassin (the enclave)


    houses on stilts


    Things to see in La Bassin


    ___

    5.

    WALK

    To The Point

    beach view cap ferret


    To where the inlet meets the ocean and see the waves crash together


    &


    See history being swallowed up by the sand


    bunkers cap ferret


    World War II bunkers


    BUNKER


    ___

    6.

    MARKET

    (On Saturday Mornings)


    Fill up your pic nic hamper with the freshest and the best of French foods

    And stock up on those “forever in fashion” Breton stripes


    breton stripes


    I found a personal favorite

    Madagascan smocking on Liberty Prints


    madagascar smock marche cap ferret


    ___

    7.

    BIKE

    Rent one and take a round trip along the coast

    CAP FERRET – L’HERBE – LE CANON – PINE FOREST

    and circle back through a forest trail


    cap ferret forest



    __

    8.

    TIDES OUT


    tide out cap ferret


    Walk on the tongue of sand facing Cap Ferret “le Mimbeau” when the tide pulls out


    __

    9.

    DAY TRIP

    Take either the public boat at Bélisaire (Cap Ferret) or rent your own from Bassin La Pinasse and cross the Bassin to Pyla

    Climb the massive Dune du Pyla

    (don’t try to drive there from Cap Ferret its a long long way away)


    dunes arcachon


    and then celebrate this achievement with a drink or lunch at Phillipe Starck’s


    CO(0)RNICHE


    An Amazing View


    view coorniche

    coorniche pool

     

    junior suite coorniche

     

    La junior suite

    PHILLIPE STARCK

    GENIUS!


    diningroom coorniche

     

    CLOSE UP

    SEE THE PILLARS

     

    pillar coorniche


    WITH AN EYE ON THE DETAILS


    PHILLIPE STARCK DETAIL


    orjasmic:

    Note: hidden strobe lighting

    Note: etched tyopgraphy

    Note: offbeat carefully curated knick knacks


    ACCIDENTALLY ON PURPOSE


    floor coorniche philippe starck


    Italian tile flooring

    I used to hate these reconstituted industrial tiles – now, thanks to Starck – I love them


    A COMPLETE LUXURY JUST BEFORE LEAVING


    Just outside Bordeaux there is a fairy-tale hotel with a spa attached that slaps on grape-based treatments


    LES SOURCES DE CAUDALIE


    les source  de caudalie

    les source  de caudalie

    les source  de caudalie


    Editing: Jodie

    Words: Jasmine

    Just because its gone torrential doesn’t mean you can’t keep it chic.

    This season there’s been a downpour of all-weather styles that are easy to fall in love with

     



    Trend, Jelly sandals, Casadei

    Casadei

    jelly sandals


    melissa capana papel campana brothers

    Melissa’s Campana Papel

    by

    The  Campana Brothers

    Trend, jelly shoes, Moschino

    High Rise

    Moschino




    Gucci, trend, jelly shoes

    FOR HER

    Gucci

     

    gucci plastic shoes mens

     

    FOR HIM

    Gucci


    Trend, Jelly, sandals, Jimmy Choo,

    Jimmy Choo


    Marc Jacobs, trend, jelly ballet flat

    Marc Jacobs

    jelly ballet flat

     

    MATCH UP

    PREFERRED BAG

     

    coccinelle  Evelyn plastic bag

    Coccinelle

    The Evelyn

    Gum Bag

    WP SlimStat

    Copyright © Jasmology. All Rights Reserved. Design Daniela Melazzi